How to Propagate a Monstera from a Cutting

Monstera propagation has a high success rate once you understand one rule: you need a node. Take a cutting without one and nothing will root, no matter how long you wait. Take a cutting with one and you have a real shot at a new plant within four to six weeks.

This guide covers where to cut, how to identify a monstera node, and what to do with your cutting once you have it. Water rooting and soil rooting both work. The method you choose comes down to personal preference and how closely you want to watch the process.

At a Glance

• Every viable cutting needs at least one node. No node means no roots, regardless of how long the cutting sits in water or soil.
• Cut 2 to 5 cm (1 to 2 inches) below the node with a clean, sharp blade, and include at least one leaf if possible.
• Water rooting takes 2 to 4 weeks to show roots; soil rooting takes 3 to 5 weeks to feel anchored.
• Move a water-rooted cutting to soil once roots are 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 inches) long with branching, not before.
• Bright, indirect light and a temperature of 18 to 27°C (65 to 80°F) speed up rooting in either method.
• Monstera sap and cut tissue are toxic to cats and dogs, keep cuttings and rooting jars out of reach during the process.

What a Monstera Node Is (and Why It Matters)

A node is the small, slightly raised bump on the stem where a leaf, aerial root, or new growth emerges. In botanical terms it is the point on the stem that contains the meristematic tissue needed to produce new cells. Without a node, a cutting is just a piece of plant that will slowly die in a glass of water. NC State Extension's Monstera deliciosa plant profile lists stem cutting and layering as the plant's two standard propagation methods, and both rely on the same requirement: a length of stem with viable node tissue attached.

Monstera nodes are usually easy to spot. They appear as a thickened ridge or knob on the stem, often opposite where a leaf petiole attaches. On older, thicker stems you may also see a brownish sheath (the cataphyll) at the node site.

Finding the Node on Your Plant

Run your finger along the stem of your monstera. You are looking for a joint or bump between two internodes (the smooth stretches of stem between growth points). On a mature plant there is typically one node per leaf.

Aerial Roots at the Node

Many monstera stems also have aerial roots growing from or near the node. These are the thick, brownish, cord-like roots that reach out into the air. In its native range, this species produces these aerial roots to climb and anchor onto host trees, which is also why a mature indoor plant often does better with a moss pole or stake to climb rather than being left to sprawl. Their presence on a cutting is a good indicator that you have found an active node, and they will speed up rooting once the cutting is in water or moist soil. If your chosen cutting already has a stubby aerial root, consider that a bonus.

Where to Cut a Monstera

You need a cutting that includes at least one node and ideally one healthy leaf. A cutting with no leaf will still root but will be slower to establish since there is no photosynthesis happening while it recovers.

Use a clean, sharp blade. Pruning shears work well. Wipe the blade with rubbing alcohol before and after to avoid transferring pathogens between plants or between cuts on the same plant. Cut roughly 2 to 5 cm (1 to 2 inches) below the node, leaving yourself a bit of stem to submerge or push into soil.

A good cutting looks like this: a piece of stem with one node clearly visible, one leaf attached, and a short section of stem below the node. If the cutting has an aerial root already protruding, leave it intact. Some growers choose a cutting with two nodes and two leaves to increase the odds of success, but a single-node cutting is enough.

Avoid cutting directly through a node. Cut below it, not across it. Removing the node defeats the entire purpose.

Sizing the Cutting

For a mature stem with normal-sized leaves, a section 10 to 20 cm (4 to 8 inches) long, measured from the cut end to the leaf tip, is a manageable size to root and later pot up. Longer sections aren't wrong, but they're heavier and harder to keep upright in a small propagation jar, and a large unrooted leaf can lose more water through transpiration than a small root system can yet replace.

How to Root a Monstera Cutting in Water

Water rooting (also called propagating monstera cutting in water) is popular because it lets you watch the roots develop without disturbing the cutting. The process is straightforward.

Fill a clean glass or jar with room-temperature water. Filtered or tap water left to sit for 24 hours both work fine. Place the cutting so the node and any aerial roots are submerged while the leaf and petiole stay above the waterline. This keeps the leaf from rotting.

Set the jar somewhere with bright, indirect light. A spot about 1 to 2 meters (3 to 6 feet) from a north or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sun will heat the water and stress the cutting. A temperature between 18°C and 27°C (65°F and 80°F) is comfortable for rooting.

Change the water every five to seven days. Fresh water keeps oxygen levels up and discourages algae and bacteria. Some growers use a clear vessel specifically so they can see the root growth; opaque vessels reduce algae but remove the visual feedback.

What to Expect in the First Few Weeks

Roots usually appear within two to four weeks, though cuttings taken in spring or early summer tend to root faster than those taken in winter. The first roots are often fine and white. Over the following weeks they thicken and branch.

Once the roots are 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 inches) long and have developed multiple branching points, the cutting is ready to move to soil. Moving it too soon (when roots are only 1 to 2 cm long) can set it back, since those tiny roots are fragile and poorly adapted to soil conditions. Waiting until the root system looks reasonably substantial gives the cutting a better start.

For more detail on the water-rooting process across different plant types, how to propagate plants in water step by step covers the technique thoroughly.

Rooting in Soil: An Alternative Approach

Some growers prefer to skip the water stage entirely and root the cutting directly in a moist potting mix. This method produces roots that are already adapted to soil, which means less transplant shock when the plant starts growing in earnest. As a general technique note for stem cuttings across many houseplant species, NC State's guide to propagating houseplants recommends checking for root formation with a gentle tug rather than digging around the stem, resistance means roots have taken hold, which works just as well on a monstera cutting in soil as it does on smaller stem cuttings.

Use a well-draining mix for rooting. A 50/50 blend of perlite and standard potting soil works well, as does a mix designed for aroids. The goal is a medium that stays moist but does not stay waterlogged.

Fill a small pot (10 to 12 cm / 4 to 5 inches is plenty for a single cutting) with the mix and poke a hole with a pencil or your finger. Place the cutting so the node is below the surface by about 2 to 3 cm (about 1 inch). Gently firm the mix around the stem so the cutting stands upright.

Water lightly, then place the pot in the same bright, indirect light conditions described above. Keep the mix consistently moist but not soggy. A humidity of 50 percent or higher helps the cutting hold its leaf while roots develop. Covering the cutting loosely with a clear plastic bag for the first two weeks traps humidity without sealing off airflow entirely, just open the bag for a few minutes every day or two to prevent mold from building up inside.

You can check for rooting after three to four weeks by giving the stem a very gentle tug. Resistance means roots have taken hold. Alternatively, look for new leaf growth, which is a reliable sign that the cutting has rooted and is actively growing.

Water Rooting vs. Soil Rooting

	Water rooting	Soil rooting
Time to visible progress	2-4 weeks (roots visible)	3-5 weeks (tug test or new growth)
Transplant shock	Higher, water roots must adapt to soil	Lower, roots form soil-adapted from the start
Monitoring	Easy, roots visible through glass	Harder, relies on the tug test
Best for	Beginners who want to watch progress	Growers who want to skip a transplant step
Common failure mode	Rot from stagnant, unchanged water	Rot from soil kept too wet, not too dry

Caring for Your New Cutting While It Roots

Whether you are rooting in water or soil, the care principles are similar. Bright, indirect light is important because the cutting needs energy to grow but cannot tolerate the stress of direct sun while it is establishing. A room temperature of 18°C to 27°C (65°F to 80°F) keeps the process moving. Cooler temperatures slow rooting considerably, and below about 15°C (60°F) rooting can stall for weeks even with an otherwise healthy cutting.

Avoid fertilizing a cutting that has not yet rooted. There are no functional roots to absorb nutrients, and fertilizer salts in the medium can damage the tender root cells as they emerge. Wait until the cutting has been potted in soil for at least four to six weeks, then begin with a diluted balanced liquid fertilizer, roughly half the recommended dose.

Monstera cuttings are toxic to cats and dogs. The ASPCA's toxic plant listing for the Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) names insoluble calcium oxalates as the toxic principle and lists oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing as the symptoms of ingestion. That risk applies to the stem tissue in a rooting jar just as much as to a mature plant, so keep cuttings, cut stems, and rooting water out of reach of curious pets during the rooting period and afterward.

If pothos propagation interests you too, the process shares some of the same principles. How to propagate pothos: a beginner's guide is a good companion read.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take a monstera cutting to root?

Most monstera cuttings show roots within two to four weeks in water. Soil rooting typically takes three to five weeks before the cutting feels firmly anchored. Warmer temperatures and bright indirect light speed things up. A cutting in a cool room (below 18°C / 65°F) may sit for six weeks or more before roots appear.

Can I propagate a monstera leaf without a node?

No. A leaf or petiole alone will not produce roots or a new plant. It may stay green for several weeks in water but will eventually die. The node contains the tissue required to generate new growth. Your cutting must include at least one node.

My cutting is in water but no roots are growing. What is wrong?

The most common reasons are insufficient light, water that is not being changed regularly, or a cutting taken without a viable node. Check that the node is submerged and that the jar is getting bright indirect light. Change the water every five to seven days. If the stem is discoloring or going soft at the base, rot has set in and the cutting is unlikely to recover. Take a fresh cutting from healthy stem tissue.

When should I move a water-rooted cutting to soil?

Move it when roots are 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 inches) long with branching side roots. Cuttings moved before this point often struggle because the fine water roots are fragile and not yet adapted to a denser growing medium.

Does monstera propagation work year-round?

You can take cuttings any time, but spring and early summer produce the fastest results. The plant is actively growing then, which means the node tissue is primed to push out roots. Cuttings taken in late fall or winter root more slowly, though they still root eventually if conditions are right.

Can I propagate a monstera cutting that already has a split, mature leaf?

Yes. Leaf fenestration (the splits and holes) has nothing to do with rooting ability, it's purely a sign of the plant's maturity and past growing conditions. A cutting with a fully fenestrated leaf roots the same way as one with a smaller, unsplit juvenile leaf, though the larger leaf will demand more water from the still-developing root system, so keep humidity a little higher for those cuttings.

Do I need rooting hormone for monstera cuttings?

No, it isn't necessary. Monstera nodes root reliably in plain water or moist soil without added hormone. A rooting hormone (typically containing IBA) can shave a few days off the process or improve odds on a marginal cutting, but for a healthy cutting with a good node it's an optional speed-up rather than a requirement.